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Headgasket problem RC600R

Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 11:01 am
by jori
Hello,

After fourth reindeer killing trip to Lappland it was time to change a new piston and cylinder. Air filter broken againg, and at least a ton of sand and mud trought motor.

For the problem;
I have one bigborekit with 102mm bore. It is kit with JE piston. I suppose it is from HeimRacing solution. Cylinder has a groove for O-ring and aluminium headgasket.

Kit is now installed, but cooling water flow out between head and cylinder!!!! I mean it flow out slowly, engine is not running. I took it open allready and check that everything fits like they should. But same problem again.

Head is straight.

What should I do next? Forget the O-ring or what?

Rest problems are almoust solved (exhaust broken, subframe cracked, again weak spark, front wheel got a hit, carbs, etc).

Jori
Finland

Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 11:40 am
by hahne
Jori, the reindeer-killer :D :D :D :D If you need some parts, I have a lot on store! Subframe I have (RC/NW). O-ring, you can build it new by universal-material and special-adhesive. Bye Gottfried

Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:45 pm
by Joachim
No Gottfried... it's a RC *R* The one with the lightweight alloy rear frame.
If you have a lot of them, please send me one :)

The Heim O-ring also is not a normal ring.
It's out of this green stuff which name i can't remember ;)

You cannot use the simple black material for a cylinder head gasket.

Maybe someonme else can give a help with the leaking gasket.

ciao Joachim

Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:20 pm
by jori
Yep lightweight alloy rear frame is welded and almoust all other problem solved. I put some adhesive for head gasket and kick the engine running. The gasket is still leaking a little, but it not make any pressure for radiator.

New Leovince slipon, bigbore kit and mikuni tm34, removed electric starter + still weak spark = not easy to start. "A couple" beer and and some cigarellos and its running.

Maybe tomorrow is time to make some test run with lambla sensor. After that and carb adjustment if the engine is still alive it is time to go dyno.

The weak spark is strange, could someone give some idea what to check next? Pick up is not right Ohm but it has been working well over 15tkm now with same Ohm. Coil is ok, at least what Fluke says vs manual.

Maybe I will try Nolygy coil, just in case....what is the right type for RCR with inductive ignition?

Jori

Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:11 pm
by jori
Test run made. Spark is strong again with Nology HotWire. No problem to kick it on. It will start at least the last kick :lol:

For normal street use the engine is ok now, but for the bad roads it is absolutely too agressive. I have to make it smoother.

One new problem come out, clutch is slipping now. Can not give full gas with 4-5 gears. Full throttle with third gear mean wheelie if clutch is not slipping :twisted:

It still need some adjustment, some rpm's are still too lean. Stable running is jerky.
Jets are:
idle 17.5
main 130
needle 9DZH5-50, top point+2x shim (this needle is strange profile, I do not understand how it can even work).

Jori

Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:44 pm
by Joachim
Gottfried has a set of stronger clutch springs.
This will you save all the money for a gym studio :)

ciao joachim